4/6/2023 0 Comments Topaz denoise en francais![]() ![]() If you have any others, please let me know! That’s kind of the run down on my list of tips for this tool, I think this should answer all of the questions I’ve seen about it (I hope!). You can also adjust your brush settings to suit the area being targeted. You can invert the masks and switch on and off the overlay. Use the Sub (black) and Add (white) brushes to regain detail where needed in a targeted way. That means that DeNoise is effecting the whole image evenly. Using the mask button will give you a white mask. Sometimes you want the details back in places and with some subjects, you lose all coat detail completely (*achem* Horses…) so in these situations, it’s time to mask. Keep sharpening set low, under 10 is usually more than enough! You can always do a high pass sharpen later. Then, increase slowly in little sections until your noise is removed appropriately. My advice would be to turn both sliders right down – like 2 or 3 or 4. The “Auto” settings always overcook the situation for me! Way too much sharpening, the introduction of artefacts and other weird things tend to happen when Auto is running the show. I’ve never used AI Clear, but regularly switch between DeNoise and Low Light depending on the coat of the dog and the level of noise in shot. ![]() Low Light: For use in higher noise situations or with fluffy coats (like Alfies around his head).AI Clear: Theoretically best for colour noise but I’ve never used this on a final image.DeNoise: The “normal” solution that should work for most cases, Auto will be too strong (see next section).In my understanding, the use-cases of these are as follows: Within the current version of DeNoise AI that I have, there are three “mode” options. With that done, it’s time to explore the actual system itself… 2. Connect DeNoise AI to Lightroom Classic.I’m not going to pop the how-to for this step here, because it may change and I don’t want this to be wrong or completely out of date in a week, so I will just link to the Topaz Labs help guides for this here: In Lightroom, it’s an “open in…” plugin and in Photoshop CC it’s within the “Filter” menu on the top navigation. Connect as plug-insįirst things first, the best way to use this tool is to have it hooked up to your editing programs as plug-ins/filters. Instead of walking through all of the steps in the little tutorial here, I want to just focus on the core things: 1. As you can see, the noise is gone and details like the small hairs are still visible.Link to get a free trial of (or just buy) Topaz Labs DeNoise AI* The post processing sliders were such that details are recovered a bit more and I normally use a pretty high setting for color noise reduction. For my kind of photos, my experience is that these settings work great. For this example I used Topaz DeNoise AI with the model 'Low Light' and I used the automatic model preferences. So I often end up in shooting at high ISO values. For macro I like to shoot from hand, but in the mornings, the amount of light can be too low to be able to use lower ISO values. To show you how well it works, here an example of a macro photo that I shot at ISO 8000. Even better: Topaz DeNoise AI can also be used for sharpening and it works really well. In many cases, I can completely remove the noise, without loosing details. Topaz DeNoise AI really does what it promises and in my opinion it's the best software for noise reduction. But when I tried for myself, I was immediately sold. I saw some examples of what it could do that were hard to believe. In the end, that meant I never dared to use really high ISO values or simply didn't shoot during certain conditions.īut then I started using Topaz DeNoise AI. But the problem, with especially Photoshop, was that when there was a lot of noise, it could not be removed without loosing the details in the photo. In the past I used Define of Nik Collection to reduce the noise or I did noise reduction in Photoshop. ![]() And although modern sensors are pretty good, shooting at, e.g., ISO 8000 or ISO 12800 will cause quite some noise. In low light conditions, that means you have to shoot at high(er) ISO values. Sometimes, you can only shoot from hand or sometimes there is too much wind to use long exposure times. A tripod is very useful for those conditions, but what to do when there is a lot of wind or when you're sitting in a canoe. In general, the amount of light in a foggy forest is low. But there are certain conditions during which shooting at a low ISO value is simply not possible. That means that I try to shoot at a low ISO value and of course I also do what I can to make sure the photo is sharp, at least by proper focusing. Of course I make sure in the field that the amount of noise is as low as possible. An important part of my workflow is noise reduction and sharpening of my photos. If you want to learn how I shoot and edit my photos, then have a look at my workflows. ![]()
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